Cruising Around the City of Sails

Auckland is a great small city. At just over 1 million residents, it’s smaller that most major American cities, but it’s definitely New Zealand’s metropolis. Once considered to be little more than a necessary stopover on the way to more interesting destinations in New Zealand, Auckland has come into its own as a place worthy of exploration.

One main reason is the number and range of really amazing natural attractions that exist within an hour of the city. If you like the outdoors, this is a great city to visit. The first thing that jumps out at you is Auckland’s proximity to the water. Called “the City of Sails”, Auckland is situated on a beautiful bay filled with islands, beaches and natural harbors. Auckland has the highest per capita boat ownership in the world, and it’s readily apparent in the number of sailboats out on the bay. They’ve even built a big harborside attraction around their former triumph in the America’s Cup.

Though there’s plenty to do in the city, you’d be cheating yourself if you didn’t get out of town a bit to see the surrounding countryside. Just a short drive away there are mountains, forests, and beaches that can make you feel like you are days away from civilization.

I took a half day tour today with a company called Bush & Beach. They specialize in showing visitors the natural wonders that surround Auckland. I usually chafe at tours, preferring to do my own exploring, but Bush & Beach came highly recommended as a way to see some of what makes the Auckland region so beautiful. I always climb aboard a tour bus (even a small one like ours) with trepidation – and as I was the only American among 10 or so touring older Brits, it took me a few extra minutes to overcome my irrational fears (they turned out to be wonderful companions for the day, so shame on me). Bush & Beach didn’t disappoint. Allan, our guide and a transplanted Brit from some 30 years ago, made his love for the Auckland region evident in the knowledge he displayed about the local flora & fauna, history, and Maori culture. We visited some amazing spots that you’d never believe were 30-45 minutes from the center of a major city.

A highlight of the tour was visiting the beach where “The Piano” was filmed. Unlike the movie, we had blue skies and a calm sea to enjoy it (and Holly Hunter, in a black dress and bonnet, was nowhere to be found). It was a stunning, unspoiled stretch of beach with volcanic sand and rocky headlands framed by jungly forested hills. A 10 minute walk into those hills was a picture perfect waterfall cascading down into a small, clear pool where a couple of people were swimming (the Maori name for the area and the beach, Karekare, means “cascading waters”). Afterward, we hiked through a rainforest that seemed absolutely prehistoric. Huge trees, ferns, vines, and palms that looked like an impenetrable jungle. You expected to see a triceratops grazing nearby. Nothing at home looks like this. And it’s all within Auckland’s regional park system – still 45 minutes or so from the center of the city.

So, if you’re coming to New Zealand, even if you’re excited about all the mountains, lakes, beaches, and vineyards you’re going to see elsewhere, don’t just change planes in Auckland. You’ll see a lot of what makes New Zealand spectacular right here, and you’ll be able to top it off with drinks and dinner that evening when you’re back in the city.