No need to Google “Waitangi.” Here’s a brief, Americanized explanation. Waitangi Day is the New Zealander’s counterpart to our Fourth of July – the day New Zealand is acknowledged to have been born as a nation by its citizens, and a holiday spent celebrating national pride. It’s fundamentally different from our Independence Day, and most other national days of former colonies (save, perhaps, South Africa) in that it celebrates the unification of the European settlers with the indigenous people – in New Zealand’s case, the Maori.
By 1840, the European presence in New Zealand was transforming from a predominantly transient population of whalers and sealers to a more permanent agricultural community due largely to waves of immigrants coming from England seeking a better life (they weren’t convicts – only the Aussies were – and New Zealanders will remind you of that every chance they get). The Maori, divided for hundreds of years among warring tribes, often tolerated their European interlopers because they were seen as good trading partners whose muskets could provide a competitive advantage over neighboring tribes. However, the warfare between tribes was getting out of hand (due in large part to the aforesaid muskets), and other colonial powers of the time, notably France, were increasingly seen as threats by both the English and the Maori.
So, on February 6, 1840, the English magistrate present at the time, James Busby, called together many rival chiefs to his house at Waitangi and negotiated a treaty that all signed, essentially proclaiming English and Maori alike to be “one people.” Intended to preserve Maori land rights and offer the British Crown’s protection, it failed in practice more often than not over the ensuing years, but the foundation was laid for a nation based on mutual respect among peoples. Though it sounds like the typical white colonial balderdash that Europeans pulled to trick the natives and grab the land in those days, it morphed into the figurative cornerstone of the country – and it was taken seriously (Treaty reparations for land unlawfully taken occurred as recently as 10 years ago). Might’ve been good if we’d been half as virtuous in our dealings with the Native American’s, eh?
I’m fortunate enough to be staying about 500m from the New Zealander equivalent to Independence Hall, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. The land where the Treaty was signed was donated by private owners as a Trust about 70 years ago to create a place of national pride for New Zealand, and the presentation on the history of the treaty (especially the Maori meeting house) is worth a look. It’s also a beautiful spot, with great walks and an absolutely incredible view over land and water.
Waitangi Day is a great time to be here, because preparations for the February 6 celebration are taking place and the excitement is palpable. The townspeople all seem to ask if you’re going, so it must be pretty good. The most interesting part, at least to me, is the Maori festival getting underway right outside the Treaty Grounds entrance. Maori from all over the country are gathered to eat good food, listen to music, buy and sell things emblematic of Maori pride, promote community activism and generally celebrate both their contribution to the country and their uniqueness as a people. I’ve tried to absorb what I can about Maori culture as I’ve traveled around New Zealand, because it’s such a unique part of being here. They have a wild and incredibly fascinating history, both as fearsome warriors and a tremendously resourceful people, building a complex society from what they found on the land and brought across the ocean in seafaring canoes. In recent years, there has been renewed emphasis on Maori culture as an integral part of New Zealand society. Maori language is taught in schools here, and there is a Maori language television channel.
The festival was a good opportunity to observe and learn more. I explored it this afternoon, and though I’m clearly Paheka (European) there was no sense of being out of place. I was always greeted warmly. In fact, the Maori I talked with today were gracious hosts; they showed more interest in where I was from and expressed more gratitude about the effort made to visit their country than I’d experienced anywhere else in New Zealand.
Many of the people who set up tents or stalls promoting goods/food for sale or a community group were camping alongside. The food on sale smelled really good – I would’ve skipped lunch had I known. The theme everywhere was pride in being Maori, and a lot of the messages on banners and t-shirts were political; there is a real sovereignty movement among the Maori that is apparently gaining strength (there is also a huge police presence here, perhaps in reaction to this movement according to some I talked with today; there were more police around the Treaty Grounds than I’ve seen anywhere in Australia or New Zealand). Across the street, there were huge ornate war canoes (known as “wakas”) on the beach for a reenactment in the morning, and dozens of Maori kids next to the canoes playing in the water and jumping off the low bridge into the Waitangi River. The whole afternoon had the feel of extended family and community. You’d have to be in a really bad mood not to enjoy it.
Waitangi, by the way, is part of a beautiful coastal region in New Zealand called the Bay of Islands. The bay in question actually contains a total of 144 islands (for the stat freak buried in all of us…). It’s a three hour drive north of Auckland, near the top of the North Island. Since New Zealand is south of the equator, and we’re so far north, the climate here is typically subtropical in the summer. Not today, though, as the weather gremlins continue to follow me around NZ – it was unseasonably cool and showery today. Still, I risked the elements once again by taking a boat tour of the Bay, and was rewarded with some beautiful scenery, aquamarine water that is reminiscent of the best parts of the Caribbean (it even stays that color when the weather’s cloudy), and a pod of 12 or so dolphins playing alongside our boat for about 45 minutes. Not bad for a lousy weather day.
So Happy Waitangi Day to all.
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